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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.