Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation do not want to learn the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
